What’s New

Cellar Treasures

2003 Prieure 1er Cru Savigny les Beaune les Haut Jarrons cellared since Spring 2005. This cellar treasure was shared with Cathy, Mark and close friends in Ennis, Montana on 13 April 2023. Twenty-years after the harvest this wine was fresh fruited, medium-full and just hitting its lengthy stride. Defying the vagarity of time. Bravo Jean-Michel and Yvonne Maurice. Bravo!

Did you know?

“Sertorius” was the Roman warrior who proclaimed the name for the village “Sarteano”. Poggi Mori is based in Sarteano and wines have been cultivated here since antiquity.

————————————–

Cellar Treasures

2004 Capitain-Gagnerot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru cellared since Spring 2006. This cellar treasure was shared with Cathy, Mark and close friends in Ennis, Montana on 13 April 2023. Nineteen-years after the harvest this wine was chiseled, nervous and fresh. Defying the vagarity of time. Bravo Patrice and Michael Capitain. Bravo!

Giorgio Pira and his family just released a small quantity of 2013 Barolo “Laut” from this single 1,2 hectare parcel. The wines departed the family cellars late February and arrived in our Seattle warehouse late March. We tasted the wines in 2018 and Giorgio was kind enough to hold them until they reached the opening of their drinking window.

————————————————————

Marie Copinet enhances her Champagne in Clay

The Maison Champagne Marie Copinet from the Sezannais region experimented two new cuvees of chardonnay, with and without bubbles, raised in clay eggs.

The little village of Villenauxe la Grande in the Sezannais was, a long time ago, more well known for its clay to make stoneware than for its champagne. In the middle of the 19^th century, the stoneware from the factory of Sarreguemines had a great reputation and was much sought after. The Maison Copinet decided to go back in time in re-using the local clay for vinification and raising their chardonnays. The village had several quarries where the clay was extracted in the 20^th century and this clay was renowned for its purity, says Marie Laure Kowal-Copinet, who started the winery with her husband, Alexandre Kowal, as independent winegrowers. The last quarry closed in 2015 and we bought the leftover stocks of clay. Marie, who is from this village, values heritage, and the terroir. The Kowal’s worked with a start-up company in Limoges which had the capacity to bake and heat the clay at various temperatures to make the first five eggs of 225 Liters.

Finally, the eggs baked at 1260 degrees were the most interesting to maintain the champagne pressure, while protecting the exchange between the inside and the container. The press and the vinification still take place in the vats before raising the wine for 11 months in the eggs with zero dosage. A 100 % chardonnay, pure and delicate, floral with notes of white fruits, verbena, lemon, herbal tea, and with creamy bubbles and salty finish. This cuvee for this first vintage 2018 was baptized “Argilla Villonissa” from the village old name. It comes with a carafe in an enameled stoneware of 1,5 Liter to accentuate the oxygenation. When used to serve, it generates “less effervescence but protect the aromas and bring softness to the bubble” says Marie. The 5^th egg was reserved for the Coteaux Champenois, knowing that the same base chardonnay, without the second fermentation, is round and mineral, fruity and aromatic with the same salty finish.

The Maison Marie Copinet ( from Marie Laure’s maiden name) was created in 2016, with some scattered family vineyards and those from Alexandre, whose grandfather was also winemaker. The couple now owns 9 ha ( 7, 5 are theirs), between the Sezannais, la Cote des Bar, the Marne Valley and the Ardre valley. “My parents decided to become winegrowers when the vineyards in Sezannais started developing in the 70s”, says Marie Laure. Later, after studying viticulture/oenology, she decided to start her own “House” with Alexandre. They built an ultramodern cellar in 2016 and commercialize about 70,000 bottles per year. The last challenge was to move to Organic, started in 2017, and granted in 2021. Published by Frédérique Hermine, in Terre de Vins, 25 July 2022

——– ———— ———- ————- ————– ————– ————-

The local paper in Saint Marcel d’Ardeche celebrated the two Gold Medals from the Salon International de L’Agriculture in Paris March 2023;

The Salon de l’Agriculture was held last week, as scheduled every year since 1900. Marie-Lise and Jean-Luc at Couron were recognized with two Gold Medals: One for the upcoming 2022 Couron Rose and yet another for the 2021 Couron Cotes du Rhone;

Stephen Maurice was in Dijon last week, promoting the savoir-faire of Domaine du Prieure, the fifth generation at this venerated family estate in Savigny les Beaune.

An archivist in Saint Marcel d’Ardeche revealed the translation of a document, dated 1559 AD. The translation is as follows:

Squire of Saint Marcel, begs brother Guirard de la Tour, commander of Jales and Saint Jean de Trignan, to give him permission and

license to be able to pass his wool and Chabrun cattle between the soil of the said commander and the land of Couron, coming from

the great chemin ferrat and pulling on the terroir of Granolhet. The commander gives it license without the aforesaid de le Roque being able to

graze his cattle there. Deed passed at the terrior of Saint Jean near the Chateau.

Terrior would equate to “Land” or “Parcel”

The INAO has recognized the dedication and diligence of the Dorthe family, amongst others, with the “Cru” designation of Saint Andeol for the Cotes du Rhone Villages.

The four villages of Saint-Marcel, Saint-Just, Saint-Martin d’Ardèche and Bour-Saint-Andéol, in select vineyards, will now be labelled: Côtes du Rhône Villages Saint-Andéol

Its current name dates back to the 15th century, when the village was renamed in honour of Saint Andeolus, a local saint martyred in 208 AD. Historic monuments abound, including 15th century houses and fountains, while religious buildings – chapels, churches and the Bishops’ Palace built for the bishops of Viviers – attest to a significant number of local saints.

This Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah blend is profound, yet lithe, full-flavored, but not heavy.

Saint-Andéol | Vins Rhône (vins-rhone.com)

Cellar work at Domaine de Couron bring in this year’s bounty.

Marie Copinet reviews a healthy, bountiful harvest at Copinet Champagne

Stephen and his team at an early morning harvest at the family parcel in Lavieres

Pierre and his team at an early morning harvest at the family parcel in Echezeaux

Jean-Luc works towards putting the delicious glass of 2022 Rose in your hand.

Christophe and son inspect vines at Domaine du Grangeon

Marie-Lise was at a market in Saint Marcel d’Ardeche, for local cheese which pairs with the much-coveted Couron Cotes du Rhone Villages blanc. A refreshing respite from the summer heat.

Elio Sandri shared the following image whilst walking among his vines, at dusk

Two good finds invited me to dinner last week. Perfect opportunity to check on the status of this lovely cellar treasure, the 2010 Couron Cuvee Marie Dubois:

Marie-Lise, Jean-Luc and little Melissa replanted Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc at Couron recently:

James Suckling paid a visit to the ever-hospitable Marie and Alexandre at Marie Copinet Champagne and came away as most, thoroughly impressed with their dedication and passion;

Marie Copinet Champagne Chardonnay Brut Nature NV

A fresh, mineral Champagne with aromas of dried apples, biscuits, lemons and chalk. Light-to medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and fine bubbles. Crisp and bone-dry. Drink now.